Greymouth - Karamea

Through many generations the West Coast Road has been a pathway to dreams: of pounamu, of gold, of a new life, and of unfolding beauty. From Greymouth to Karamea you’ve got 155kms of sealed tarmac begging you to drive it.

If someone told you to check out the 'pancake rocks', what would you expect? A few flat stones heaped side-by-side perhaps?

Well, you'll certainly see flat rocks at Punakaiki on the West Coast of the South Island. But these 30-million-year-old limestone formations are nothing to be scoffed at. They're huge lording cliffs of rock, which really do look like a sky-high layer of elephant-grey pancakes stacked one on top of the other.

For something a little different to the standard walkway method, check out this stony phenomenon on a guided horse trek, which will lead you to the best spots to check out the huge water spouts that blast skywards through blowholes.

Punakaiki is also the gateway to Paparoa National Park, a 30,000-hectare landscape of native rainforest, mountain ranges and rugged coastal beaches. Professional horse trekking guides will lead you through this range of natural landscape, past limestone cliffs and through rivers to arrive at Punakaiki Beach where your horse will dabble in the saltwater as you admire the Pancake Rocks.

You'll find plenty of information about horse trekking in Punakaiki – and other activities such as canoeing, caving, guided tours and art trails – at the Department of Conservation visitor centre located in the Punakaiki township.

The Punakaiki Walk in Paparoa National Park is more than just a meander past a heap of stagnant pancake rocks. The walk is heaving, hissing, blowing and surging with activity as you make your way through the dense, dark canopy of coastal forest and native nikau palms.

Bursting its way onto the scene at the first fork in the track is the Sudden Sound Blowhole. If you listen out, you'll hear it before you see it; the distinctive whooshing sound of sea water being forced through the subterranean caves and channels sounds a bit like a train approaching.

The blowhole only sprays out seawater when the ocean is very rough, so it's best to visit on a choppy day at high tide. The same applies to the Surge Pool, where the sea is forced in underneath causing a foamy froth to form in the rock crevice. It may sound inviting, but this bubble bath is certainly not suitable for swimming!

Next on the track, the Chimney Pot Blowhole puffs out pillars of sea spray as the water gushes in through a narrow rock channel. Cross the bridge to Putai – the largest blowhole on the track, walk under the archway at the western entrance to the Surge Pool and continue the loop track back to base. Now, who's for a plate of pancakes?

From 1 September to mid-November each year a major preoccupation for a wide range of Coasters is whitebaiting. This is an important seasonal industry for the West Coast, with higher whitebait returns here than anywhere else in the country.

Whitebait are the immature stage of the inanga (river smelt) and taste delicious. The tiny critters have been known to fetch as much as $150 per kilogram, which explains why the West Coast's rivers and estuaries are crowded with keen fisherfolk during the whitebait season.

Whitebait are usually cooked in fritters; try the recipe below or buy some whitebait fritters from a local eatery.

Lake Brunner is the water playground of the Central West Coast and a destination that's increasing in popularity. The lake's surrounding rivers and streams make for great fishing and all forms of boating and water sports, or discover one of the many picnic spots on the lake's edge.

As well as fabulous fishing there's a wide range of activities on offer in the region, including a mammoth amount of beach and forest walks. Whether you're keen on a leisurely stroll or a multiple-hour walk this is the place to go. Alternatively there's caving and a variety of wetlands and rainforest ecosystems to explore.

The township of Moana nestles on the shores of Lake Brunner with the Southern Alps and native forests as a backdrop.

If you're interested in learning about the heritage of the coal mining days of New Zealand, take a trip to Denniston. Denniston was the main township of a unique collection of mining towns built to service the coalmines on the Denniston plateau.

It's accessible via 9km of winding, sealed road from Waimangaroa just north of Westport, and it offers magnificent views down to the coastal plains of the Karamea Bight and the mouth of the Waimangaroa River.

In its time, Denniston was one of the most isolated and difficult mining towns to live in in the country. The current road was not built until 1902, with the first access being either up a steep pack track or in a coal wagon up the Incline.

The fact that former inhabitants remember it fondly, and that people still choose to live there, speaks volumes for its past social values and enduring mystique. Areas such as the Incline (known by locals as the eighth wonder of the world due to its extremely steep drop) and Banbury Arch are places of national significance.

'Friends of the Hill' run an excellent museum with photos, static displays and other information in the old school manual training building at Denniston. There are several walks at Denniston including the Bridle Path, ranging from a few minutes to 3 hours.

Denniston is also seventh heaven for mountain bikers with around nine tracks available and a new colour-coordinated map developed by local Buller Cycle Club.

Harihari Coastal Walkway – it's been dubbed one of the most scenic walkways on the West Coast. Take just under three hours out of your day to walk this wonderful track, featuring unique remnants of the West Coast's industrious past. The track follows the Wanganui River to where it meets the Tasman Sea, and then turns south along the beach to complete the loop walk.

Since whitebaiting and the West Coast go hand in hand, it's no surprise that colourful whitebaiter huts pop up along the riverbanks on this walkway. Old bush tramways and pack tracks evidence the logging and mining that fuelled this region's economy in earlier days.

And the natural scenery is just as impressive; the track cuts through dense forest and past lagoons with awesome views of the mountains and coastline. It's an easy-grade walk that should be taken at a leisurely pace. Because, as any local Coaster will tell you, there's no need to hurry in Harihari!