Hawke's Bay - Whakatane
Explore art deco-laden Napier, Chardonnay capital Gisborne and relaxed Whakatane for a trip out to active volcano White Island. This coastal road trip features magnificent beaches, incredible wine and several places of historical importance, including Kati Beach where Captain Cook first landed the sun-drenched Hawke's Bay features it all.
Approx driving time 5 Hours 42 min
Pit Stop List
Summary
Locations along this route include:
Itinerary
Reminisce about past golden summers in Napier, where the bronzed, sun-warmed smoothness of Pania of the Reef brings back memories of happy mornings on Marine Parade, roller-skating on the promenade, close encounters with dolphins, and watching divers hand-feeding sharks and rays.
Step back in time surrounded by the zigzags, sunbursts and fountains of the art deco facades, enjoy the fine local wine, and soak in a hot spa. Make sure you visit the New Zealand Wine Centre for educational experiences and wine tasting. Then join a bumpy tractor-trailer ride to see Cape Kidnappers' gannets (this is on the way to Gisborne, see below). Put away your watch for as long as possible, and relish a holiday pace.
Napier combines the luscious potential of a bowl of sun-ripened fruit with the persistent memories of golden summers past. Strolling along the promenade of Marine Parade to the distinctive swishing of surf on stones, the fragrance from the Rose Garden mingles sweetly with the distant murmuring of cafés.
The exquisitely restored art deco facades of Napier's main streets come to life during the Art Deco Weekends in February and July, when locals polish their vintage cars, pull out their best clothe sand take part in 'bubbly' breakfasts, café crawls, celebrity tea parties, and glitzy costume and coiffure competitions.
Hotspots
Wainui Beach: Surf's up!
Te Tapuwae O Rongokako Marine Reserve: Swimming, diving, snorkelling
Motu River: Riding the rapids
Whakatane: Small-town charm
Tips
Book a tour to visit White Island – you'll feel like you've set foot on an alien planet. Located 48km off the shores of Whakatane, White Island is accessible by boat or helicopter, or you can opt for a scenic flight.
Keen for a paddle? The Eastern Bay of Plenty is a superb area for kayaking, with beautiful rivers and lakes, and a stunning coastline. Even the weather is ideal, with light winds and mild temperatures for most of the year.
Whether you're a beginner or highly experienced, a family or a group, there are trips here for you. Enjoy the fun.
Check out the Waioeka Scenic Reserve – bring your fishing rod, walking shoes, and togs – there's something here for everyone.
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SH 35 - New Zealand's scenic coastal road journey
Meandering around the East Cape, SH 35 begins its 334 kilometre journe...Full Itinerary
All this jazz wouldn't be happening of course, without the tragic events of 1931, when the entire landscape of Napier was destroyed in an earthquake that remains New Zealand's worst natural disaster. Find out all about this devastating event and its fiery aftermath at the Hawke's Bay Museum and Exhibition Centre, then do a walking tour with a guide from the Art Deco Trust or pick up one of their self-guided driving maps to view the highlights of an entire town that was reconstructed from the ground up, in a wave of art deco optimism.
Heading north, SH2 creeps along the shoreline from Whirinaki then heads inland past Tangoio Falls Scenic Reserve. Stretch your legs on a short walk to the waterfalls or take a wander through White Pine Bush Scenic Reserve and onwards to Lake Tutira's Department of Conservation (DOC) campsite.
From here, SH2 continues to wind through the 'blink and you'd miss them' townships of Putorino Kotemaori and Raupunga where the Mohaka River Scenic Reserve provides respite from the road and great views of the viaducts and river. The mouth of the Wairoa River offers excellent fishing but be sure to acknowledge the guardianship of Tupaheke, the taniwha who lives under a flat-topped rock seen at low tide. Wairoa has a lovely village green and square, a museum and a park, next to the bridge where the old Portland Island lighthouse was relocated when it was no longer required to warn ships off the Mahia Peninsula.
From Wairoa, SH38 explores the misty forested peaks of Te Urewera National Park and beautiful Lake Waikaremoana en route to Rotorua, while SH2 continues to Nuhaka. The enormous chalk-white cliffs of the Mahia Peninsula lie in wait, with high, jutting headlands that plunge dramatically to the sea. Life in Mahia Beach, on the west side of the peninsula, moves to the rhythm of the tides.
Maungawhio Lagoon, across the peninsula, is another good reason to pack your binoculars, with numerous species of resident birdlife. From Mahia itself, situated on a rocky coastline with small sandy beaches, views extend around the coast. You can see Young Nicks Head, Gisborne and much of the East Cape coastline, as well as – from Auroa Point – dramatic Table Cape.
Back on SH2, a track leads to one of the nation's most beautiful mineral springs, the Nikau Pools at Morere Hot Springs.For a few dollars you can enjoy the health-giving waters, as well as a large indoor pool opening onto a forest courtyard, a cold freshwater swimming pool, a paddling pool and sandpit for the littlies, picnic areas, BBQ facilities, and volleyball net.
Refreshed, you can now make tracks to the Chardonnay Capital of Gisborne, the first city on the planet to see the sunrise.
From Gisborne, this road trip around the East Cape is magnificent and great for people looking to escape the daily hustle and bustle of life. On the way out of town, surf's up at Wainui Beach where locals ply the waves. The surf beaches of Makorori and Tatapouri offer good campsites, and you're bound to find great snorkelling and diving in Te Tapuwae O Rongokako Marine Reserve. Movie buffs may wish to visit Whangara,where Whale Rider was filmed.
From here, drive on to picture-perfect Tolaga Bay. With an unforgettable foreshore and its iconic 660-metre-longwharf, this is definitely a time to pull out the camera and capture a truly Kiwi snapshot.
If you're looking to stretch your legs, hike the Tatarahake Cliffs walkway for fantastic views, or tramp across nearby farmland to historic Cook's Cove, which provided a temporary home for the crew of the Endeavour during Captain James Cook's first exploration of the New Zealand coastline in 1769.
Kaiaua Bay and Anaura Bay both offer good camping and it was here at Anaura that Captain Cook made his second landing, in October 1769. A plaque on the beach by Hawai Stream marks where he met the hospitable Ngati Wakarara and took onboard fresh food and water. A 3km walking track explores its northern headlands.
From Anaura Bay, move on to Ruatoria – the true heartland of East Cape. It's a relaxed, friendly and mellow town where locals happily share their unique lifestyle and culture with visitors. Visit Ruatoria's galleries, or tramp to the peak of Mt Hikurangi, the first point in New Zealand to see the sun each day. Mt Hikurangi is sacred to the local Maori, Ngati Porou.
The road to East Cape starts at Te Araroa,and closely follows the coastline around to the lighthouse. It's a hard climb up 750 steps to the top, but the views are dazzling.
At Hicks Bay, you can ride bareback up the beach, like a real East Coaster. Horses can be hired by the hour and there's the chance to join a two to three-day bushland trek. At the Hicks Bay Store you can rub shoulders with suntanned campers stocking up on holiday staples such as milk, bread and ice cream. Southwest of Cape Runaway is Whangaparaoa, the site where Maori canoes landed in 1350. Here on the northern shores of East Cape, a series of white-sand beaches join together to complete the broad sweep of the Bay of Plenty. Each bay has its own distinctive make-up,from the sleepy haven of Waihau Bay to the pretty Anglican church on a promontory at Raukokore.
Head now to Whanarua Bayt and through to Te Kaha. After the isolation of East Cape, this former whaling town seems enormous – there's a petrol station, stores, camping ground, golf course, and hotel overlooking a rocky bay.
Rafters tackle the rapids of the mighty Motu River, while fly fishermen stalk the reclusive brown trout lurking in deep pools at every bend.
From here, the road takes you through to Opotiki and on to Whakatane. White Island, the marine volcano, rumbles away off the coast. You can visit this 'living' island with a tour group (out of Whakatane) for an experience of a lifetime. You'll surely sleep soundly knowing you've had a wonderful day exploring this part of New Zealand. Aren't you glad you stopped and smelled those flowers?
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So you've done a bit of snorkelling, been swimming with the dolphins and seen stingrays up close and personal – you think you've done it all? Not yet. To really consider yourself an aquatic adventurer there's one more thing you have to tick off your list. That's right, swimming with sharks!
In an ironic role reversal, the shark cage experience involves you being put into a cage, partly submerged in the ocean, while ravenous mako sharks circle. If this sounds like fun then you're probably a little crazy – but it can be done.
Off the coast of Gisborne, a fishing charter company runs regular shark diving experiences for the brave…and mildly insane. Live baits are dropped into the water to attract the sharks, and before long, the cage is surrounded with hungry makos hunting for a tasty treat.
The cage floats on top of the water so divers can stand chest-deep and get oxygen easily. You can choose to snorkel or use the regulator mouthpiece for longer stints under the water, watching as these powerful sets of jaws glide effortlessly past.
Shark cage experiences are great for photographers, videographers, or just the everyday tourist who's looking to do something a little less ordinary. Certainly one to get your blood pumping, the shark cage experience is not for the fainthearted, or the selachophobe for that matter.
It's one thing to slide down a grassy hill on a piece of cardboard (remember that as a kid?), whooping with excitement as your corrugated ride gathers bouncing momentum. But it's something else to slide at high speed down 60 metres of rock.
But this isn't just any rock face – it's not a craggy cliff of menacing dimensions that should be left to abseilers. Rather, it's a wild ride made smooth by a coating of constantly running water.
Located approximately 50km from Gisborne on the Wharekopae Road – heading toward Eastwoodhill Arboretum – this natural rock slide is a part of the Wharekopae River.
Most age groups could give this rockslide a go: however, a little care is suggested. So is using a boogie board, inflatable mattress or inner tube to replace the traditional cardboard vehicle.
Just one word of warning – don't mistake the Rere Falls for the rockslide! It may look like a gush of water that begs to be conquered, but these falls are better captured via photography. You'll also find a great swimming hole and picnic area here.
And if Rere Waterfall remains too compelling to ignore, you could always try walking around its cascading curtain to slide from the rocks behind into the water below.
While some wine regions are not easily identified by a single grape variety, Gisborne earns its title of the Chardonnay Capital.
One of New Zealand's biggest grape-growing regions, Gisborne has 2000ha of vineyards, with more than half dedicated to producing acclaimed chardonnay.
A dominant feature of Gisborne chardonnay is that it is approachable, meaning it is ready to drink at a young 'age'. This can be attributed to the generous amount of sunshine and warmth the region receives.
With such a climate, grapes ripen and produce low amounts of acidity but high levels of sugar. The result is full-bodied, lush, soft, fruit-flavoured chardonnay. Although it can be enjoyed so soon after production, Gisborne chardonnay also matures well.
Wine tours can guide you around the region's best vineyards; and if you're planning to visit Gisborne in October, don't miss the annual Wine & Food Festival, but be aware – tickets sell out fast.
Enjoy a 75-minute cruising tour or go by jet boat for 8km and kayak for 8km. The Motu River offers the only access to this wild splendour, scarcely touched by humans since time began. Its banks are carpeted with unique and rare flora and the entire river is protected by a conservation order.
What makes a jet boat ride down the Motu so special is the combination of ancient Maori history and adventure, delivered by the well-informed drivers as you fly along the water past numerous natural features.
Thrilling and informative, your high-speed jet boat ride down the Motu River in Gisborne is an excellent way to get on the water and learn something about it at the same time.
Overnight jet boat tours are a particularly memorable way to discover the Motu. Experienced guides jet you up the river to a suitable camping site, where you set up a tent and soak up the beautiful stillness of this untouched region. With campfires, fishing, kayaking and waking up riverside, this truly is the complete Motu experience.
In a kayak or raft, it’s all systems go as you manoeuvre your way through the notorious gorges of the Gisborne region and down legendary rapids such as Bullivant’s Cascade, The Motu Slot and Double Staircase – each twist and turn offers exciting new surprises.
If youre keen for a cultural fix, then Gisbornes diverse range of attractions should tick all boxes. Here are some suggestions:
For a comprehensive and entertaining insight into Maori culture, Waka Toa delivers the goods. This performing arts group mixes Maori legends and stories with music, drama and humour to give you an authentic Maori experience.
The Tairawhiti Museum combines with an art gallery and its extensive collection covers everything from Maori treasures to textiles while it also houses Wyllie Cottage and the Star of Canada Maritime Museum.
The East Coast Museum of Technology is great for the family, with displays ranging from tractors to engines.
Staying with the transport theme, the Gisborne Aviation Museum documents the regions history of flying, complete with aircraft on display.
The Maori-owned and operated Kahukura Gallery has a strong focus on contemporary and traditional indigenous art from Aotearoa New Zealand and the Pacific, among more. The watercolour paintings of Studio West Gallery and the diverse works of the Pencil Gallery are worth checking out, too.Starting at the long outstretch that is Tolaga Bay Wharf, the Cook's Cove Walkway takes you across farmland and regenerating forest to the spot where Captain James Cook dropped anchor to repair and restock Endeavour.
Not long into the trip, you'll come across a wooden lookout platform, gaining the first views of Cook's Cove itself. Sheltered by the weathered Mitre Rocks to the left and Pourewa Island to the right, it's not hard to see why Captain Cook decided to take stock here.
Once the track arrives at the cove, you can play the modern-day explorer and check out the Hole-in-the-Wall (Te Kotere o te Whenua) as well as the New Zealand Historic Places Trust memorial, a commemoration of Cook's visit. Follow in the great explorer's footsteps and restock your own ship: that is, enjoy a picnic on the white sands of Cook's Cove.
No matter what your style, you're bound to enjoy this scenic and historic walk!
Cook's Cove Walkway leads through working farmland; therefore the track is closed from 1 August until Labour Weekend for lambing. Walkers are asked to respect the farmer's land and stock at all times.
