Charlie and the Chocolate Factory has a lot to answer for when it comes to ideas of how chocolate is made. Roald Dahl would have you believe giant waterfalls of chocolate mix the molten confectionery, pint-sized chocolatiers run around singing songs in unison, and the chocolate factory is shrouded in secrecy. We took it upon ourselves to get to the bottom of this chocolate-making myth, and thanks to the team at Devonport Chocolates we didn't need a golden ticket to do so.

Photos © Stanley Tung

There's a strict science to melting chocolate

Devonport Chocolates is a New Zealand company that makes all its chocolates by hand. The company started in 1991 and is one of the oldest gourmet chocolate companies in New Zealand. They use Belgian chocolate as their base and source New Zealand ingredients such as fruit and nuts wherever possible.

So what's the worst thing that could happen in the chocolate factory? According to Derek from Devonport Chocolates: a power cut. Not only does a dreaded power shortage blanket the blessed workers in darkness, it also renders the chocolate useless. That's because the whole chocolate-making process is reliant on consistent temperatures. For the finished chocolates, refrigeration keeps them from melting; for the chocolate about to be poured into moulds, warm temperatures are crucial.

Anyone who's ever ended up with lumpy chocolate after trying to melt it in a saucepan will tell you there's a strict science to melting chocolate. The optimal temperature for white and milk chocolate sits at around 32º C; for dark chocolate, it shoots up to around 40º C. At Devonport Chocolates, bucketfuls of silken chocolate swirl around inside continuous temperer machines. These machines ensure the chocolate remains at an ideal consistency, and ends up with a smooth and shiny finish.

The secret of successful chocolate making

Moulds of various shapes and sizes are filled: dinosaurs, hearts, and - at this time of year - Easter bunnies and eggs. The moulds are then placed on a vibrating surface to get rid of any air pockets, before being left to set or half-emptied to leave a shell. The hollow chocolates can then be filled with piped caramel, liqueur creams, hokey pokey, nuts or fruit and sealed with another thin layer of chocolate.

Nearby, truffles are rolled to a precise size and weight before being dipped and drizzled with a fine lattice of yet more chocolate. Others are dusted with a cocoa finish or embellished with a tiny gold leaf. Tray upon tray of decorated chocolates, spotted eggs and truffles are then stored in the giant fridge, ready for the Easter rush.

The secret to successful chocolate making lies in the details, and the staff at Devonport Chocolates certainly pride themselves on their finely handcrafted creations. Each step in the process is closely monitored, right up until the quality packaging and point of sale. There are no chocolate waterfalls, Oompa Loompas or iron gates, but we have a feeling the factory at Devonport Chocolates would make even Willy Wonka proud.


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